Muddy Waves in the Valley of Special Coconuts

Our next spot was a two hour drive south. This place is a small town with an amazing wave. A wide muddy river feeds into the ocean here, creating both lefts and rights over cobblestones and sand. On south swells the lefts work while the rights turn on during those winter north swells. We camped out under palapas for $50 pesos each per night ($2.50 US). It was a wonderful spot with bathrooms, showers, a basin for washing clothes and dishes. They also had electricity, which was a real treat.  The only downside: The toilets didnʻt have seats - or toilet paper for that matter, but we were used to that by now and came prepared.

While here, we met Nick, another overlander from the US driving a big brown Vanagon, quite a bit roomier than ours. He was on a surf trip of sorts too and it wouldn’t be the last time weʻd see him on our adventure.

We stayed there for almost ten days. It felt nice to not move for a while. We fell back into that familiar routine of morning surf, eat, hide from sun, surf, eat, sleep, repeat. In the afternoons the tamale lady would come by, with piping hot queso and pollo tamales as well as tacos de pescado. Three for $20 pesos. Thatʻs lunch for about $1 US.

The only disruption to the routine was the time Paul picked a coconut from a tree. We were walking back to our palapa after a surf when we came upon a couple of coconut trees with ripe coconuts at arms reach. Paul picked one, twisted it off, and we kept walking. All of a sudden we heard yelling from somewhere behind us. A man walked up and started yelling at Paul, saying these were his special coconuts and he gets $500 pesos for three (a ridiculous sum). He then grabbed Paulʻs board and refused to give it back. Paul tried to give the guy the coconut back but he wasnʻt having it. The word ʻpoliciaʻ was thrown around twice. The words ʻlo sientoʻ were mentioned at least 8 times. After about 10 minutes of argument, with no policia called, Paul agreed to give the guy $100 pesos. He got his board back, and we left his ʻcocos especialʻ alone for the rest of our stay.